WHAT'S DIFFERENT ABOUT TONOPAH NEVADA?

DEEP DESERT HUMANITARIANISM-----COME WITH ME---I'LL PROVE IT! Austin got cold---I bid farwell from this mountain pass and head south.

See those white spots about 5 miles down? Several great hot springs--but it's cold and I've been there, done that--I'm going a hundred miles south and 2000 feet down to Tonopah.

Whirlwind--was warned to dodge them. I flashed on the book of Job where God speaks to Job out of the whirlwind--with a very weak explanation of why the righteous suffer: In essence he said: SHUT UP JOB AND TRUST ME---I MADE THE WORLD. The Bagavad Gita has a better answer: LIFE IS COSMIC DRAMA---EVIL IS PLOT THICKENER.

Settled overnight here on the outskirts.

ROLL THE DICE FOR FREE ROOM? Now there's a story to get to the bottom of. Do you doubt that I will?

Downtown Tonopah--Nothing to write home about----yet. Parked and walked all round--still chilly.

They're a touch proud to have participated in 1908--did they race west around the world toward Paris? I don't understand! Will google it later. ( I did so--and yes they went west--through here to Valdez, Alaska--then by ship to Japan and then to Siberia and on across Europe to Paris. Only 3 of the 6 cars finished. The US entry--a Flyer won)

This I understand: Area 51--the spooky, super secret air base is nearby.

OK here's the dice--for--free--room--rules: Sign in--get ready to pay--roll the 3 dice (by turning this cage)--three of a kind means you don't have to pay. The odds: 36 to one. Nice but hardly humanitarianism. I know--stay with me--I'll get to that.

Asking who conceived and funded this gimmick--I was directed to the Owner---found him, got the story and this clumsy one handed photo op. He told me the dice game was called chuck-a-luck; a favorite of the miners. He invited me to stay and look around. Turns out he is "Mr Tonopah" in the sense that he's built himself an empire here: Hotel, casino, restaurant, museum, bar, art gallery etc. I've seen this syndrome many times out west: Don Laughlin, founder of Laughlin, Nv is an example and the guy who owns Beatty, Nv is another.(more about him later)

Here is a tipoff of accumulated wealth---conspicuous consumption---a genuine Remington in the Lobby. (recognize it? It's famous--entitled Mountain Man) But I was going to illustrate Humanitarianism---- A shocker of a story--Begins here--saw several of these. The town council is obviously addressing a real problem. Another sign said it was a felony to abandon an animal.

Horses are especially beloved. See where I'm headed here?

Read this carefully and you will be as shocked as I was. Guess who felt strongly enough about this atrocity to post the $5000 reward? Yes, it was "Mr Tonopah" putting his money where his feelings are. That, dear readers, is deep desert humanitarianism.

PUZZLE OF THE SHOE TREE

WHAT IS THE MEANING OF THIS? I stop as you would--to marvel--surely the biggest shoe tree in the world! I'm moved to poetry:

A spectacle in the midst of great spaciousness,

Sixty miles from anywhere,

But I choose for the moment to make it the center of my universe,

the focus of my attention.

what, really, is it and what, if anything, does it mean?

A shrine perhaps? I do not worship!

That is for fearful toadies who misunderstand our situation.

But I'm struck with the question---draw near in wonder--

A whopper of a shoe tree;

A challenge to small and slender arms tossing lace-tied shoes toward lofty limbs.

Up there, however, dangle myriads,

flung no doubt by stronger arms--football players perhaps

Or fathers determined to hang one for their children.

Thousands have stood where I stand, marveled as I marvel,

Curious, perhaps, as I am curious---

Then go their way---a long road ahead--Austin or Fallon in their sights.

But I will not go! I am seized by the puzzle:

What can this mean? Who? When? Why?----Well anyway Why?

I resolve to seek an answer like Buddha did:

I will sit under this tree--and I will not rise--till an answer comes!

I sit---time and cars pass---I sit----I sit;

My monkey mind jumps and squirms then calms---I sit--and wait!

AND THEN---quick as lightening, clear as thunder --The answer comes!

SHOE TREE IS A SPECTACLE TO WITNESS--AN INVITATION TO PLAY!

It commands my eyes like fireworks;

Like a kneeling puppy-- invites to play.

But there is more--I'm sure of it---I continue to sit.

Pictures come---a memory reel unwinds;

I see dollar bills, signed and stapled to a barroom ceiling.

I see names and designs made with rocks along the roadway.

I see driftwood sculptures along San Francisco Bay;

I see decorated Medicine trees in Montana

Still the reel unwinds: I see pioneer names chipped into a rock;

Indian symbols of goats, snakes,men;

I see hand prints on Uluru rock in Australia,

And every name and symbol says: LOOK AT THIS!

And every blank space beside it says: WHAT SAY YOU?

So every dangling shoe says ---look at this!

And every empty limb says: "waiting for you"!--"gimme a shoe"!

Still the reel unwinds: I see a child-like notion

in the mind of the very first shoe thrower--likely 50 years ago--

A roadbuilder, camped here, whimsically disposing of his worn out boots;

They dangle, they delight the crew--

bestow a moment of fame and invite---a second pair--- a third.

Like a snowball the idea rolls forward till a thousand shoe birds

sway in the wind.

THERE IS MORE---I remain seated:

Here, thought ingressed into matter;

Idea birthed into action.

A tiny spark lit a great fire;

Here, stands a clue to human purpose:

Nothing became something;

Eternity stepped through a stargate into time---

to amaze, amuse, connect, and remind me:

LIFE IS A GAME-----GO PLAY

I rise-give thanks--drive on.

Shoe birds that fell? or failed?

And lest you need to be told what this is---

LONELIEST ROAD IN AMERICA PART 3

SERIOUS CODGERISM------75 MILES FROM A GROCERY STORE Surprised to see cattle out here! Could they eat these bushes? Had to find out!

Engaged these two cow---persons--couldn't be sure the far one was not a lady--dared not presume. They said yes the cows could survive on this stuff---if each cow gets a hundred acres.

Survival is all that is asked of them---it's the calves that are valuable. I asked about odd people living far in the outback. Yes! they are out there! AND GOOD LUCK.

OUT THERE! I felt it in my bones. A codger compound for sure---A juicy story! Scanned with my binoculars--saw two strange buildings---found a dirt road and went there.

I Halloed from the yard of a huge old house-----this puzzled, soft spoken gentleman (Terry)came out. Told him I was interested in the history of this place----introduced myself. He said the owner was inside---had the answers---come on in.

Meet Bob---Master of this desert manse. Ten minutes later we are old friends and I have the story. (my charm should be registered with proper authorities---But I will tell you the secret: 1. credentials ( intelligent speech-)-2. Playful personna 3. Keen questions 4. Deep listening then repeat 3 and 4) Here's the story: Retired geologist and bar owner---grew overly fond of alcohol--retreated here with wife---she left---Terry is between jobs---cooks and cares for the old guy. He paused in the telling to pour another glass full of spirits---Terry also. The two big buildings outside are historic relics: the well preserved remains of an Overland Stage depot--a well and stalls for perhaps 50 horses. Terry would give me the tour later. I asked if I could see the house--15 rooms plus 2nd floor.

Ancient stove--works fine

Reading is big out here---one of two extensive libraries---had a full set of Louis L'amour.

Bobcat pelt, photo memories.

One of two barns for the stagecoach horses. The roof is covered with dirt--cool inside.

Sturdy, hand hewn beams--even now. (Have you noticed that I'm getting thinner--on a new diet--the Shangri Lai--no kidding----I drink a tablespoon of olive oil 3 times a day---kills the appetite---eat whatever I want--I'll be 170 lbs by Jan 11th, 2010)----but I digress---want to show you the clever ceiling work.

Think this technique is called waddle and daub---mud and sticks.

Bob hobbled outside to see my wonderous trailer. Invited me to stay. I declined. A cold front is coming--incredibly, snow predicted at higher elevations--where I'm headed.

Austin, Nevada---loneliest town on the loneliest road---one reason I've chosen it as my legal address for certain purposes. Elevation 6000 ft plus. Old gold mining town---now occupied by folks comfortable with quiet comfort. I drove up the hill to the right, found a flat spot , tuned in my satellite and settled in for the night. My rig is a dot --right center.

Now you can see it more clearly. Nary a soul approached me--Had a great sunset.

LONELIEST ROAD IN AMERICA--PART 2

SEARCHING FOR KODGERS------- AND THE BAR AT THE END OF THE WORLD. Black stones/ white dirt---who could resist such easy roadway renown. Names and messages stretched for 5 miles on both sides.

50 miles from anywhere is this famous bar. Just like in the movies. A somewhat somewhere watering hole for desert life--- perfect wildlife viewing area.

Great movie set. I imagined a bar fight scene erupting out on the dirt.

Women are scarce and precious in the deep desert. Shirt or no shirt, they drink free forever. I saw only one in my 24 hr stay here--leading me to declare the deep desert a TESTOSTERONE ZONE.

Have you seen this before? I have. The entire ceiling was covered. New and desperate immortality seekers going vertical and overlapping---barkeep estimated $8000 total.

Heard about this--had to see it with my own eyes---guy named Jesus something. Still I was suspicious--climed on the bar to get this shot---discovered the secret. Look closely and you can see it too.

Finally, my codger hunt got under way---found this hodge podge in the remotes. Someone lives here but he wouldn't come out. His little dog, however, was terrified-- ran madly away into the desert---not barking or defending its territory. I've learned that Kids and dogs that grow up in remote solitude are not bold and self reliant as you would expect but timid and fearful as a rule. Bold confidence requires social beginnings. Older folks that retreat to the desert---are another story.

Not far away, I came upon this base camp for an apparantly genuine mobile codger. My instinct steered me clear of this one.

But not this one----I bicycled quietly upon him and waited---sound asleep--and stayed that way---took this photo and let him be.

Before dark, I accumulated lots of neighbors--all very friendly---invited me to their fire at night--They dress in elegant armor--their aim:-- to drink in huge gulps of desert adventure---often traveling 175 miles in a giant circuit---"weird and wonderful stuff out there" they said. Ghosts towns, mines, gaping earthquake fault lines.

Four grandfathers, friends and motorcyclist together for 40 years. Note how well armored. Gave them a tour of my trailer in exchange for the story.

Away they all roared like a Viking horde.

See their dust in the distance? They're headed to the top of that mountain. Perhaps I've stumbled onto the secret of eternal youth---adventure on!

Slow internet connection has delayed this posting. Next I will report on a really deep desert codger I found later this same day.

THE LONELIEST ROAD IN AMERICA

HWY 50---FALLON TO ELY NEVADA
KODGER KING GOES SEARCHING FOR HIS KIND----DAY ONE
Wake up here in Fallon--raise my panels to better catch the sun while I go explore the town. I quickly learn that it's a farming/air base town----gateway to the vast emptiness that calls me.

Main street downtown.

First guy I meet---very attentive it seems to the top, middle and bottom of his costume. I ask about the buckle--hoping for a story-----said he bought it. Ah well!

Saw this in the store window of a child indoctrination center---can you believe it? I went in promising myself to be nice.

This is Patty--chief indoctrinator and proud of it. Does her "work" with after school groups. Teaches kids Biblical literalism and creationism. This is one unit of a nationwide organization. I couldn't resist asking: "Do you wish that all those false religions would stop indoctrinating their kids?" She declined to answer. (have I mentioned elsewhere: I believe that indoctrination is child abuse---like putting a virus in their head)

Next, I wandered into a pawn shop---it was bustling with business--sign of the times? Saw this customer lady with a service dog---I asked how he served----she said that when she is about to derail mentally--the dog senses it and comes bumping into her leg----which helps her snap back.

And on the wall---someone I love---I wondered if these desert folks knew who he was----so I asked the pawnmaster: who is that guy? Imagine my surprise when he said:" Walt Whitman--a great Poet." ( I think I'll give you a small sample of his greatness at the end of this blog entry)

The beginning of the loneliest road---I''m going hundreds of miles thataway---and find the Kodgers that live out there. I promise you!

This grabbed my attention----stopped to get the story---a primo dry salt lake--99 percent plus pure and 70 feet thick---a vast supply of salt mainly used to de-ice roads.

This too--a gigantic sand dune--playground for dunebuggy folks. Free mon, tu, and wed---$40 for the rest of the week. Of some historical note because right here was a pony express station.

About 50 miles in ---think I'll settle here for the night---surprisingly I have internet access.

Folks out here are proud of their claim to fame.

I camp out of the way---near a quaint old bar--just brimming with codgers.---But that's tomorrow's story. Meanwhile here's a bit of Walt Whitman from my memory banks: (From Song of Myself)

Each man and woman of you, I lead upon a knoll,

My left hand hooks you round the waist,

My right hand points to landscapes of continents---and a plain public road.

Not I or anyone else can travel that road for you.

You must travel it for yourself.

It is not far.... It is within reach.

Perhaps you have been on it since you were born and did not know,

Perhaps it is everywhere, on water and on land.

Shoulder your duds and I will mine and let us hasten forth;

Wonderful cities and free nations we shall fetch as we go.

If you tire, give me both burdens, and rest your hand on my hip.

In due time you shall repay the same service for me;

for after we start, we never lie by again.

Long enough have you dreamed contemptible dreams,

Now I wash the gum from your eyes;

You must habit yourselves to the dazzle of the light and of every moment of your life.

Long have you timidly waded, holding a plank by the shore.

Now I will you to be a bold swimmer,

To jump off in the midst of the sea, and rise again and nod to me

and shout, and laughingly dash with your hair.